Cusco and Machu Picchu
The Galapagos trip is now over and I had a night back in quito, 6 of us went to find some spicy food as this had been sadly lacking on the boat. We found an Indian restaurant which was OK and as usual cheap about $10 including a beer. Some then head of for another beer but Jenny and I head back to the hotel and have a coffee in the coffee shop. Jenny is off on a trip to Cocapaxi the next morning so has an early start, I stay out of the way until she has gone then go for a lesuirly breakfast where I am joined by Lou and Caroline who also decide to have a free day. We go back to the old town and have a quick look round then off to a park and walk round the handicraft stalls. Back to town and we have a nice lunch at the Magic Bean. Lou and Caroline come and wave me off, it’s sad to leave them but we are off on different adventures. The Taca flight from Quito to Lima is on time and quite good, I am met at the airport promptly but have to wait 40 minutes for the driver I am not happy by this time, I am taken to my hotel in Lima – the less said about the Hotel Carmel the better. I request a 05.30am wake up call then get an apology at 04.45am for getting it wrong.
Back to the airport in Lima and arrive to find out the plane will be departing early, exit taxes paid I make my way to the departure gate. On the plane AreoGal could take note of Lan’s inflight catering, which was very simple. I arrived at the airport in Cusco but had to wait for the agent as the flight landed early – not a problem as I am soon at the hotel and meeting up with my friend Lou. The hotel is like a lot of the hotels in Cusco hiding behind a door on a street like all the rest, once behind the door this is where the surprise happens, I walked into a lovely courtyard with the rooms on two floors, I am immediately given a cup of coca tea and checked in. My room is though another walkway in another courtyard and there is a small Peruvian music group playing and children dancing, we later find out this is a charity the hotel is involved in for single mothers. The children look to be having a good time, then room is nice although quite dark because of the “cell like” windows, but it has a big comfy bed and a decent bathroom. Soon we have to leave for our city tour which turns out to be more of a walking tour than I had imagined and the altitude takes it’s toll. At this point I should mention the hotel has a first aid station with oxygen cylinder, I didn’t need it but when we were checking out it was being used. The city tour was a long day and Lou visited the last location in the dark – I didn’t get off the bus as I didn’t think it was safe.
Back at the hotel we find Gary and Kathy have been also checked in and while Lou and I are chilling in my room there is a knock on the door, we have a quick chat and then head off for some dinner, we end up in a small pizza place and order a bottle of wine which we think they had to go and get from somewhere, the pasta meal is lovely and is about a fiver each. The one thing about Cusco is your money goes a long way.
Next day we are off on a Sacred Valley tour, which begins in Pisaq market, very touristy but we find the local part and have an empanarda (cheese pasty) and then find the cake stall, I have a piece of pineapple cake and Lou has banana. 
Then we are off to visit the Inca location of Ollantaytambo but it looks quite a climb to the top so I opt to stay around the base and wait for the others. Lunch is a very touristy affair and for some reason the group is booked into 2 restaurants, we are given about 45mins for lunch so we make our way back to the vague meeting point at the appointed time only to wait a further 35 minutes for the rest of the group. Organisation could have been better. Our next stop is Chinchero for a local market, which is small and set around a courtyard, I buy myself a silly Peruvian hat and a small bag which I can use for our overnight stay at Machu Picchu. Lou buys a bag and had already been talked in to one earlier in the day.
We meet up again with Gary and Kathy who have to wait for the local agent to arrive at 7pm with their kit bags for their Inca Trail trek, so we all head out for dinner after that, we were looking for a restaurant call Baco which had been advertised in the Lan brochure on the flight but couldn’t find it, it turns out we were only yards away. We go back to a restaurant call Incanto although seated next to the kitchen so being picky not the best table the food was good and again cost about 25 Sol or about $8 with wine. Gary and Kathy are off on their trip in the morning and we have to leave the hotel at 05.30 ish so we say our goodbyes and we wish them luck with their trek.
Lou and I are picked up from the hotel and taken to the station we have seats on the Vistadome train which is OK. We arrive at the station at Aguas Calientes and are met by Jonny our tour guide for our trip around the citadel, Jonny is Quechua and is passionate about his culture, he spent 7 years being a porter on the Inca trail, his favouite phase was “now pay attention” when he wanted to give up another piece of information.
We spent about 3 hours touring the citadel and I could have stayed longer but Lou wanted a loo break and some lunch so we head back down the mountain to the hotel, Lou plans to return the next day and walk to the Sun Gate but I decide the one day is enough as it is a steep entrance and the steps have taken their toll on my knees. Back at the hotel we find the spa and Lou has a massage and I have a foot threapy which the thearapist finds amusing as I have very sensitive feet. Dinner is at either 7pm or 8.30pm and we have opted for the 7pm sitting, I head down to the lobby where they are serving complimentary Pisco sours while Lou has her shower, I also have Lou’s as she doesn’t like them – Lou has a champagne cocktail. Dinner is lovely and served in a very nice restaurant, I have as starter of soup which is made with a local grain, but can’t think of it now and the main dish is an Alpaca steak and jacket potato, followed by 3 flavours of icecream, we have a bottle of wine which we finish with coffee next to a roaring fire in the lobby.
Lou has an early start so head off to bed, I have a lovely relaxing breakfast which is the best of the whole trip, I spend the morning around the hotel, chatting to other guests and reading a book. Lunch is another nice meal and then it’s time to head back to the train station for our return trip to Cusco. Next day is a free one in Cusco and I am shattered so spend another relaxing day, we are then determined to find the restaurant in the Lan brochure so this time we check the street map and know where we are going. We have a drink at another bar/ restaurant I can’t remember the name to now and then head off for Baco. The combination of rich food, a large Pisco sour and half a bottle of wine take their toll. It’s all over and we are back to the airport for our return flights to Lima and my long flght to Amsterdam, there is a mix up at the airport and I have to wait almost 2 hours for my bag to be returned to me as they took it to Lou’s hotel, it was supposed to be left with the agent in Lima so I didn’t have to pay excess baggage.
After travelling about 27 hours I am finally back home. A great trip to the Galapagos and then Peru but I am glad to be back home – it was a busy 3 weeks.